How to Winterize an Outdoor Faucet and Garden Hose (Before the First Freeze)

To winterize an outdoor faucet, you shut off its water supply from inside, drain the line, and cover the spout before temperatures drop below freezing. Then you empty the garden hose and store it out of the cold.

Quick answer: Disconnect the hose, close the indoor shut-off valve, open the outdoor faucet to let it drain, and fit an insulated cover. For the hose, drain it fully, coil it loosely, and keep it in a garage or shed. Plan for about 30 minutes, and do it before the first hard frost.

It’s one of the cheapest jobs on any fall to-do list. Yet a single skipped faucet can cause a split pipe inside your wall, and you may not notice until spring. If you’re in the UK, this is the same job as protecting your outside tap.

Why you need to winterize an outdoor faucet early

Water expands as it freezes. When that happens inside a closed pipe, the pressure has nowhere to go.

The weak point is usually the short run of pipe between the faucet and the warm part of the house. It sits in a cold exterior wall, so it freezes first. As a result, a crack can open inside the wall cavity, out of sight.

Here’s the tricky part. A frozen pipe often doesn’t leak while it’s frozen. The leak starts when the ice thaws, or the first time you turn the faucet on months later.

So when you winterize an outdoor faucet, the goal is simple: no trapped water anywhere in the line once nights turn cold.

What you need

What you need: a bucket, an old towel or rag, a flashlight for the basement or crawl space, an adjustable wrench or pliers (only if a fitting is stiff), one insulated faucet cover per outdoor faucet, and a hose reel, hanger, or large tub for storage.

That short list covers everything it takes to winterize an outdoor faucet. Foam dome covers and padded fabric covers both work. Pick one that fits snugly over your faucet’s size and shape.

How to winterize an outdoor faucet, step by step

Work through these steps for every outdoor faucet on the house. Most homes have two or three, so check the back and sides too.

Step 1: Disconnect the hose and any attachments

First, unscrew the hose from the faucet. Remove splitters, timers, quick-connect fittings, and pressure regulators as well.

Anything left attached can hold water against the faucet. In fact, this is the most common cause of frost-free faucets bursting, which we’ll cover in Step 4.

Step 2: Close the indoor shut-off valve

To winterize an outdoor faucet properly, you need to stop water reaching it. So next, find the valve that feeds the faucet. Look on the inside of the same wall, usually in the basement, crawl space, utility room, or under a nearby sink.

It’s often a small round handle or a lever on the pipe that heads toward the outside wall. Turn a round handle clockwise until it stops. For a lever, turn it so it sits at a right angle to the pipe.

Not sure which pipe it is? Trace it from the wall where the faucet sits. If you can’t find a dedicated valve, see the FAQ below.

UK homes are similar. An outside tap is usually fed from a small isolating valve under the kitchen sink or near the internal stopcock.

Step 3: Drain the faucet and the pipe

Now go back outside and open the outdoor faucet fully. Some water will run out, then it should slow to a drip and stop.

Leave it open all winter. This small detail is what makes it safe to winterize an outdoor faucet this way, since it gives any remaining moisture room to expand without stressing the pipe.

Back inside, check the shut-off valve for a small cap on its side. This is called a bleeder or drain cap. Put a bucket underneath, then loosen the cap to release the water trapped between the valve and the faucet. Once it stops dripping, screw the cap back on.

Step 4: Check whether you have a frost-free sillcock

A frost-free sillcock (also called a frost-proof hose bib) looks like a normal faucet from outside. However, its valve sits at the end of a long stem, tucked inside the heated part of the house. When you close it, water drains out of the stem through the spout.

To spot one, look at the handle. If it sits on the end of the faucet and points straight out from the wall, you likely have a frost-free model. Many also have a small cap on top, which is a vacuum breaker.

You still need to winterize an outdoor faucet of this type, just with fewer steps:

• Always remove the hose. An attached hose blocks drainage, so water stays in the stem and freezes there. The split then happens inside your wall.
• Check the slope. The faucet should tilt slightly downward toward the outside so the stem can empty.
• Watch for drips. If it keeps dripping after you close it, the washer may be worn. Get it fixed before winter.

With a frost-free sillcock and no separate shut-off valve, you can usually skip Step 2. Even so, a cover is cheap extra protection in very cold areas.

Step 5: Fit an insulated cover to winterize an outdoor faucet

Finally, push the insulated cover over the faucet. Most foam domes have a loop that hooks behind the faucet and a cord you tighten to pull the cover against the wall.

Make sure the cover seals flat to the siding or brick. Gaps let cold air in, which defeats the point.

In the UK, the same items are sold as outside tap covers or tap jackets. Lagging any exposed pipe nearby helps too.

How to winterize your garden hose

Once you winterize an outdoor faucet, the hose comes next. A hose left outside full of water can split, and the fittings can crack. Meanwhile, sun and frost break down the rubber or vinyl over time. Here’s how to store it properly.

Step 1: Drain the hose completely

Remove the spray nozzle first. Then stretch the hose out on a gentle slope, or lay it flat on the driveway.

Starting at one end, lift a section above your shoulder and walk it along toward the other end. Water will pour out ahead of you. Repeat once more to be sure it’s empty.

Step 2: Coil it loosely

Treat the hose with the same care you used to winterize an outdoor faucet. Coil the hose in large loops, roughly two to three feet across. Tight loops can kink it, especially when it’s cold and stiff.

If you use a reel, wind it on without forcing it. Also screw the two ends together, or cap them, so insects and debris stay out.

Step 3: Store it somewhere sheltered

A garage, shed, or basement is ideal. Hang the hose on a wide bracket or lay it flat in a tub, rather than draping it over a single nail.

Storing the hose is the last part of the job when you winterize an outdoor faucet. Keep it away from sharp tools and direct heat. Bring spray nozzles, timers, and splitters inside too, since their small parts can crack when frozen.

While you’re in the shed, it’s a good time to clean and store your garden tools before winter. And if your patio set is still out, read our tips on how to store garden furniture over winter.

Signs of a frozen or burst pipe

Signs of a frozen or burst pipe: little or no water when you open a faucet; frost or bulging on visible pipework; damp patches, stains, or peeling paint on the inside of the wall near the faucet; puddles in the basement or crawl space; a hissing or running-water sound when nothing is on; a musty smell; or a water bill that suddenly jumps.

Even if you winterize an outdoor faucet carefully, it pays to know these warning signs. If you suspect a frozen pipe, keep the faucet open and warm the pipe gently. A hair dryer or heating pad works. The American Red Cross guide to frozen pipes warns never to use an open flame or a blowtorch.

If the pipe has burst, shut off your home’s main water valve right away. Then call a licensed plumber. Damp walls can also lead to mold, so dry the area quickly. Our guide to getting rid of a musty smell in the house has tips that help.

Common mistakes when you winterize an outdoor faucet

Even careful homeowners slip up on a few details. Keep these in mind every time you winterize an outdoor faucet:

1. Forgetting a faucet. Walk the whole house, including the garage and any side walls.
2. Leaving the outdoor faucet closed. Once the indoor valve is off, the outside one should stay open.
3. Skipping the bleeder cap. That short stretch of pipe can still hold enough water to crack.
4. Trusting a frost-free faucet with the hose on. This is the classic hidden failure.
5. Waiting for the forecast. A surprise cold snap can arrive overnight, so do it early in the fall.

FAQ

When should I winterize an outdoor faucet?

Do it before the first hard freeze, when nights start dipping close to 32°F (0°C). In colder regions that often means mid-fall. Checking your local first frost date gives you a useful deadline.

Do frost-free faucets need an insulated cover?

Not always, because the valve sits inside the warm part of the wall. Removing the hose is the main way to winterize an outdoor faucet like this. Still, a cover adds cheap protection during long, very cold spells or in drafty spots.

Can I leave the hose connected to a frost-free sillcock?

No. A connected hose stops the stem from draining, so water freezes inside the wall. Always disconnect it before the cold arrives.

What if my outdoor faucet has no indoor shut-off valve?

Drain it, fit a good insulated cover, and consider asking a plumber to add a shut-off or install a frost-free sillcock. Both are fairly quick jobs.

The verdict: do it this weekend

Learning to winterize an outdoor faucet takes half an hour once, and then it becomes a quick fall habit. Disconnect, shut off, drain, cover, and put the hose away dry.

Your next step: grab a flashlight and find the shut-off valve for each faucet today. Then add the job to your fall checklist alongside protecting potted plants from frost.